So Ive got a tippmann 98C , non plat. non act, with a response trigger and cyclone feed hopper. . . most recently added an Aluminum powertube and bolt. . . . So when I was adding this part, i turned my velocity screw all the way in, just to be on the safe side. . . . Took it to out to a renegade field and it shot fine. . . although i noticed that my response trigger was no longer working. . . . SO I adjusted that all the way in ( the only way to get any response back ) and then took it to bonehead to chrono it. . . . and what i noticed is that ever since i adjusted my response trigger back in. . . It has started chopping balls so my question is with both the velocity screw and the response trigger adjusted all the way in. . . is there some sort of adverse affect that it can cause to my marker? Like should I adjust both of them at the same time? or should i adjust the velocity and then the response trigger? I am totally at a loss. . . . .
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I am a bit of an Old School Fool. . .
AGD Automag 68 Classic
W/ ANS Xtreme Flow Valve, Brushed main body rail, Double trigger, VL Revolution X Board
HAHAHA.. I have an issue with my A-5 as well. Sounds like we have the exact same upgrades. I talked with the Tippmann rep at the Paintball Confrence 2 weeks ago about mine and he blamed it on all of the upgrades.
If I were you I would try to put the stock powertube back in and see if your chopping problems go away. I have not changed mine back out as of yet but will try soon. All of the markers @ VXP are now fixed and I can now look at mine agian.
It could be a number of things, but i would realy need to see the gun and the tank you use with it to know for sure. If you would like i can do some tech work on it. text me if you are interested. 702-540-5219
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Custom Valken V CAM ego 11
12" deadly wind barrel with Stainless freak inserts and DW apex 2 adapter and CF shroud
custom painted pinokio hopper with p board, virtue speed feed.
LoL. . . . kind of funny you should say that Kro. . . . BUUUUT I am no longer able to put the stock power tube back in. . . . due to the fact that it is broken. . . . BUT what I did do was change out the aluminum bolt back to the plastic one. . . . took it back out to the renegade field, and well. . . not a single ball was chopped. . . . which makes me wonder about the size of the paint at bonehead vs my barrel bore size?
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I am a bit of an Old School Fool. . .
AGD Automag 68 Classic
W/ ANS Xtreme Flow Valve, Brushed main body rail, Double trigger, VL Revolution X Board
UPDATE! So i took out the aluminum bolt, replaced it with the stock one, took it to LVPP, where it chrono'd in perfectly, not a single ball chopped, BUT what ive noticed about the response trigger is that the piston slowly bleeds back in. . . . . which with out that piston there for the trigger to bounce off of . . . . well. . . . there's only about 3 or 4 seconds of rapid fire before the piston finally slips all the way back in?
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I am a bit of an Old School Fool. . .
AGD Automag 68 Classic
W/ ANS Xtreme Flow Valve, Brushed main body rail, Double trigger, VL Revolution X Board
so, i tried pulling it all apart and lube up the o ring inside of the response trigger. . . to no avail. . . . so where does one get a new seal for their response trigger?
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I am a bit of an Old School Fool. . .
AGD Automag 68 Classic
W/ ANS Xtreme Flow Valve, Brushed main body rail, Double trigger, VL Revolution X Board
i actually found someone else who had similar problems on the tippmann forums. . . . and their solution was to teflon tape the 2 banjo fittings on the back side of the gun. . . . did this, and now ive got full on response! ! ! Thank you to everyone who helped! ! !
__________________
I am a bit of an Old School Fool. . .
AGD Automag 68 Classic
W/ ANS Xtreme Flow Valve, Brushed main body rail, Double trigger, VL Revolution X Board
